Tuesday, February 16, 2010
When I played MASH as kid, I never thought I would actually end up living in a shack
As for Carnaval, it was an experience. Imagine listening to really loud Spanish pop music (but only 6 songs that are stuck on repeat allllllll night) while watching beautiful latina girls covered in glitter and feathers dancing on giant floats being pushed by alright looking latino guys (not wearing glitter or feathers, of course), crammed onto bleachers with lots of drunk, spray-happy Carnaval-goers armed with an endless supply of spray foam. Yes, that´s right, spray foam. And lots of it. First warning on the label: Avoid all contact with eyes. Where is the first place people like to spray? In your eyeballs. Especially if you´re American. We were also armed with our own spray foam, but we failed to see the importance of all the safety goggles being sold in the street before walking into the parade area. Now I know, trust me. Within 15 minutes, I was in the first aid tent having my eye flushed out. Those warnings are there for a reason, apparently. But then I bought the appropriate personal protective equipment and enjoyed the rest of the night injury-free. There were a ton of people with tons of energy (and foam) and the parade just would not stop. We were there for about 4 hours and it was still going strong when we left. Almost too much excitement for the typical peace corps volunteer who spends a majority of their days drinking terere and staring at the only road in town to see who´s driving which direction......
As for news from my site, well, there´s not a whole lot. I continue to struggle with Guarani, but am determined to up my language level to that of a 5 year old in a couple months. Maybe. And I think my current 3 yr old language status has manifested itself physically, as well. I didn´t think I was too clumsy back in the states, might even go so far as to say pretty stable and balanced and able to walk and sit like a normal person. Not so in Paraguay. First few weeks in site, my nose made direct contact with the thick-ass wire laundry line in the ¨backyard¨ as I ran, full-speed, inside to grab something. That took me to the ground. More recently, I spilled arroz con leche (that´s rice with milk for you non-Spanish speakers) on a girl´s head as I was serving at a party. That was the one and only time I´ve been given the serving responsibility. Now I´m back to sitting and looking confused. Then, just last week, I quickly cleaned off a chair as I was preparing to sit in it but somewhere between the cleaning process and the me-sitting-down process, the chair fell over backwards. But I was already on my way into the chair so I went crashing to the ground instead. Oh yes, I am a constant source of laughs for my community because these things don´t happen when I´m alone (maybe because I´m never alone), but only when there is an audience. To them, I think I really must be 29 going on 3, maybe 4.
I can only hope that when I move into my own house and am able to cook and clean for myself, that maybe I´ll appear a bit more adult-ish. And when will this be, you ask? I wish it would be soon, like tomorrow, but I think it´s going to be at least another month. The host family I´m with right now has a little casita (that´s spanish code word for shack) right next to them and I´ve decided that it will be my future living abode. But first, a lot of ¨home improvements¨ must be made. Like killing all the rats that live in and around the place (my host dad has already killed 8: 4 with a machete and 4 with a slingshot.....he thinks we´ve almost got them all). We need to build another door and window, run electricity and water over to it, paint the place, build an outdoor shower --- you know, the usual kinds of home improvements that must be made on a wooden structure in Paraguay that hasn´t been lived in for 10 years. The big hold-up for getting this done is a lack of wood. Imagine that: living in one of the most deforested areas on the planet and there´s no wood to build anything. Could my argument for planting more trees get any stronger? Anyway, hoping to get some wood soon if we can find someone to deliver it from somewhere. Sounds promising, right? Right, that´s Paraguay. I also really really want the wood to build a fence around my garden that I will hopefully be able to plant in the next month or so. I need the fence to keep out the pigs and chickens who are always walking around ¨my¨ place and just happen to live adjacent to my future shack. That´s right, I will soon be living with the animals and couldn´t be more excited to finally be on my own. Six months is a long time to live with a family when you´ve lived on your own for the last 11 years. I´ll keep you posted on the progress.
Hope everyone is doing well back home. Happy Fat Tuesday. Happy Valentine´s Day. Happy President´s Day. Miss you all. Come visit. Write me letters. Ciao.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
So this is what it´s like to be a volunteer
What do I do with the rest of my time, you may ask? Well, there's a lot (and I mean a lot) of sitting around outside of my host family's house with the family drinking terere, listening to the blaring radio that never stops and chatting (I don't actually do the chatting, I just sit and smile/stare)with the numerous people who are constantly stopping by on their motos because the family has an almacen (a little store) out of the front of it. We've got the biggest almacen on Cuatro Linea, I'll have you know. And back to the radio subject really quick: seriously, the thing is only turned off for a few hours during the night. From 6 in the morning until at least 11 at night, every radio in every house in campo Paraguay is blasting a mixture of terrible reggaeton, Paraguayan polka, and this weird catchy synthesized cachonga(?)crap. The only respite is when the electricity goes out (thank god it happens fairly often) or I get the hell out of site. Like right now. But unfortunately this internet cafe is also playing the same music. Of course. So, back to what I do with my time..........lots of sitting around, I do my laundry quite a bit (which takes forever when you do it by hand---get down on your knees and thank someone for your washing machine immediately!), I walk around the 'hood trying to talk to other families when I build up enough courage, I shuck a lot of corn and shell a lot of beans, I try to study a lot but I usually end up falling asleep.....etc, etc, etc. Exciting, I know. But it's the summer which means it's freakin' hot and no one (not just me) is doing much of anything. So I'm doing exactly what I should be doing--being Paraguayan (at least that's what I keep telling myself).
My Paraguayn host sister, Andresa, even promoted me to the level of a 'norteguaya' (instead of just a 'norte') last week when I was helping out with the family pig slaughter. That's right, I helped slaughter a pig. I didn't do any of the killing, but I did watch it all and helped with the cleaning/gutting/skinning afterwards. This is what I learned: cleaning pig hair off of pig skin is disgusting and it gets everywhere, they keep the hooves but I'm not sure what they do with them (ours were sitting in the kitchen for days before mysteriously disappearing), Paraguayans have mad skills with the machete--just a few whacks here and there and *waalaa* pig carcass is cut up, half of the rib cage is the heaviest portion of meat/bones, there is about as much weight in fat as there is in meat and bones, every part of the pig is used. EVERY PART....... All that fat I just mentioned, yeah, that too. After all the meat was separated into is respective body parts and hanging from the ceiling in the kitchen (I accidently ran into the rib cage of couple of times---gross!!!), the women spend the entire afternoon chopping up the solid fat and frying it into chicharrones. I thought chicarrones were the grossest food imaginable until yesterday when they whipped out this strange meat roll thing all tied up with string. Think jelly roll for image purposes but made out of 'meat'. I asked what it was but everyone refused to tell me, they just wanted me to try some of it, saying it was he'iterei (super delicious). I agreed to a small bite and managed to choke it down, but I never want to eat it again. Definitely not he'iterei in my book. Especially when I figure out (and they confirmed this) that it was the scraps of pig meat rolled up in a pig skin/fat layer. So freakin' gross. I still can't stop thinking about it......never again.
So that's about it on my end of things. I received a bunch of packages in Asuncion in December right before I came out to my site that I need to extend lots of thanks for. Matt--you're so awesome, especially with the added bonus of leftover Halloween candy. I was a huge hit that day. Cousin Sarah--you are also awesome. The folders were perfect and I use the notebook everyday now. Parents and grandparents--thanks, thanks, thanks.....keep em' coming! The only thing I can think of now that I want (don't really need anything at the moment) is high quality instant coffee, like the Starbucks singles I've recently been introduced to. I know, I hate Starbucks just as much as the rest of you but their instant coffee is damn good and a kicks Nescafe's ass (that's all we can really get down here). And letters are always always always always wanted.
Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas and happy New Year's. It was a very sad Christmas for me being all alone (mentally at least) and away from everyone I love. I spent the new year's with friends by a lake in a forest reserve, so that was much better but I still miss you all and hope that I'll be getting some visitors later on this year!!!!!!!
This computer is weird so I can't label the photos below, but most of them are from the 11 hour walk/pilgrimmage we did to Caacupe on December 8. Hundreds of thousands of Paraguayans make this pilgrimmage every year, so we decided to join in the fun. The first pic is our whole group, Americans and some of our Paraguayan host family members. The next is us walking, still in daylight, followed by us still walking in the dark at the crest of 'the' big hill into what looked like the apocalypse. Then we crashed in the park when we finally arrived with thousands of others. The last photo (if it works, I'm skeptical) is me working with Africanized bees. That's right, killer bees...........




Thursday, December 24, 2009
Happy Holidays!
Another quick update that I´ve been meaning to write about but haven´t had the time is about this crazy walk a group of us volunteers did on the 8th. December 8th is a big holiday here, the Virgen of Caacupe day, and hundreds of thousands of people walk to the basilica in Caacupe to celebrate. We decided to do the walk, too, and left at 7:00 the night before. We walked 11 hours, getting there by about 6 in the morning. The last 16 km of the walk was a massive procession of people taking up the entire road for as far as you could see forward and backward. Crazy stuff. I´ll post pictures when I have more time.
I hope everyone has a wonderful holiday week. I wish I was there celebrating with you, or you here celebrating with me. I now have a cell phone (but have pretty poor reception in site) so feel free to call me anytime (check my facebook info page for the number), or send me texts. I would love to hear from you.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Freedom of the South, my a**
It’s been a busy time since the last blog post so I have a lot to catch up on. Sorry for such a long gap with no news, but this one will be especially long to make up for it. Here goes:
Two weeks ago, I visited the place where I’ll be a real PC volunteer for the next two years, also know as my “site” in PC lingo. As I said in the previous post, it’s in the Department of Itapúa, way in the southeast corner of the country, in a place called Libertad del Sur. After being there for 5 days, I can certainly say that rich foreigners with gigantic, mechanized soy (transgenic, of course), wheat and sunflower plantations are the only ones feeling this “freedom of the south”, as its name implies.
My community is along one of these long, straight roads, spread out over at least 5 km. The daily bus to and from Encarnación (the closest big city) goes right past the house where I’ll be staying for at least the first month. At least when it’s not raining. If it’s raining, all bets are off, especially concerning transportation. The soil out there is pretty much as red and clayey as a soil can get. I’ve heard the term Laterite being thrown around, for those soil nerds out there. What this means in practical terms is that it’s impossible to drive/run/walk/bike on when it’s wet, and the red mud sticks to EVERYTHING. So being stranded is a regular occurrence given that I’m at least 40 km to the nearest paved road. However, this past trip I was stuck in just such a situation where it was raining, rain was predicted for the next 3 days, and I wanted/needed to get back to my training community to celebrate Thanksgiving with the other Nortes. Brian, another volunteer-to-be in another community just a few km away, walked to my site amidst the crazy thunder and lightning that happens in a humid climate (way different than storms in the western US……I never knew the difference until now) and relayed the message that we were essentially ordered to get out now or be stranded for days. The daily bus leaves at 4 am, so that was out of the question, and we were informed the only person in “town” with a 4x4 that would be able to drive in the current conditions was a French guy named Pierre. Lo and behold, Pierre drives by a few minutes later so we flag him down and proceed to beg for a ride to the paved road, in Spanish of course. As soon as he found out we were PC volunteers, we stopped talking about the ride and instead began to get ridiculed for being ignorant Americans who have no business being there and don’t know anything. He was your typical aging Frenchman, with lots of opinions and no shame to share them all. After standing in the rain for a good 10 minutes, listening through the car window to this crazy, animated, shirtless, old bald French guy yelling in Spanish, we finally got back around to the whole ride situation. To make a long story short (and least shorter than it could be), he gave us a ride. It was a long 40 km, trying to argue in Spanish about the benefits of having forest over soy plantations and about how I do actually know things and have some experience in life, all the while fearing for my life because his arms and hands were flailing about to emphasize conversation points instead of being on the steering wheel. We made it safely, though, and I ended up really enjoying talking to/antagonizing him. I think he really liked my argumentative nature. Of course, he is the antithesis of everything I’m working for/towards here in Paraguay, but he’s also a good ally to have, especially in emergencies.
Other things that happened on the trip:
-Walked about 3 hours (one direction) to visit an NGO in the San Rafael Reserve that´s working to save some of the last remnants of the BAAPA. It´s run by an awesome Swiss couple who fed us the best food I´ve had so far in Paraguay. They also have a gorgeous lake that´s supposedly free of alligators and snakes. I took their word for it and jumped right in. Anyone who comes to visit me, we´ll definitely be headed here.
-Watched ´From Dusk till Dawn´ dubbed in Spanish with my Paraguayan host family in site while sitting in their dirt floor kitchen. That was strange....
-One of the first conversations I had with my ´contact´ (the person Peace Corps talks to in site who really wants the volunteer to work there and who agrees to kind of help the integration into the community process) was about yoga and geology. And these were subjects he brought up. That kind of progressiveness and awareness out in the campo is pretty damn rare, to say the least. I´m looking forward to talking with him a lot more, especially once I can actually speak in Guarani like an intelligent adult. But that´s going to be awhile.
-Went to meet and visit another of my contacts one day who is the 6th grade teacher in the local school. We chatted for a bit but then he had to leave to go to some work stuff. Before he left, I was invited to stay at his house with his very sweet wife and teach her how to make pizza dough, because we had been talking about how one of my ¨jobs¨ is going to be to cook with the women of the community (trust me, they need new ideas). So me and Jorgelina spent the day in her little kitchen cooking away. To make the sauce, we went out to her garden and picked fresh oregano, tomatoes, green onions and carrots. Then she taught me how to make arroz con leche. We had a great time, and she barely speaks any Spanish. Somehow we managed to communicate effectively. I´m hoping for lots more days like those.
Okay that´s enough about that. You´ll hear many more stories about this place over the next 2 years. I don´t want to bore you yet. Now on to the next subject: Thanksgiving. Half of our traninig group got together and cooked up a huge feast (see pictures below). Chicken was substituted for turkey and there was no gravy, but other than that it was just like the real thing. This was my first Thanksgiving ever away from my family, so it was a little strange and a little sad, but I´ve made some pretty good friends here over the past couple months and they were good family stand-ins. I was also able to Skype with almost all of my family back in the states--thanks everyone for making that happen! It was wonderful to talk to and see you all. I hope we can do it again soon!
I need to give some big shouts out to all you awesome people who have sent me packages. Things at the post office here sometimes take a really long time, so in the last couple of weeks I finally recieved a whole bunch of things. I now officially have plenty of notecards and folders. Thank you sooooo much for responding to my pleas! Aunt Patt--the magazines were a great suprise, and I almost cried when I saw the Alibi--it was perfect. Kenna--you kick ass. I couldn´t ask for a better cousin. Grandma and Grandpa--the folders have let me become an organizing fool. My life feels much calmer now because of it. Nina--how freakin´sweet of you. I can´t wait to read the book and I´m using the Burt´s Bees as we speak (or type). I know there are other packages out there in postal no man´s land that are trying to find me, so don´t depair if I haven´t received yours yet. I will be extremely happy and grateful when I do.
IMPORTANT: If you are planning on sending packages during the next couple of months, I have a huge request. The post office in Asuncion (where I have to go to pick up any packages that are sent to me) only keeps the packages for about a month, after which time they are returned to sender if they´re not claimed. Since I´m going to be living so far away from Asuncion, I will definitely not be making it back there on a monthly basis. So, what I´ve learned recently is that courier services, i.e. DHL, FedEx, UPS, USPS Express Mail, deliver directly to the Peace Corps office where the packages are kept indefinitely. So my request is that any packages sent during the next couple months use one of these courier services, if you want to ensure that I get it eventually. I know they´re much more expensive so I understand if my package supply decreases, but I just want to make sure that I get whatever you want to send me. There is no change for letters. Just send those the cheapest way possible.

Saturday, November 21, 2009
Big News
For those of you interested in knowing a little bit more about this place, you can google Procosara, which is an NGO working in the area to spread environmental awareness and help save what´s left of the forest. I´m sure I´ll be working with them at some point. In addition, the US Forest Service is actually involved in work in this part of Paraguay and I´m going to be meeting up with them the second week of December. Apparently there´s also a huge garden at the local school and the school also has a worm composting project which they make a lot of money off of by selling the castings to a local cooperative of some sort. I´m very excited about it all right now. My attitude may change after spending the next 5 days there, but I hope not.
I´ll be back in Guarambare next Wednesday, the day before Thanksgiving. A lot of us Peace Corps trainees are getting together to make a huge meal and celebrate in style. To all of my relatives reading this right now: I would absolutely love to talk to the fam on Thanksgiving. I´m thinking the easiest and cheapest way for me to do this will be on Skype. I´ll be able to get to a computer and log onto my Skype account around 5:00 or 6:00 pm my time, which is 4 or 5 hours ahead of you (I´m not sure which one). So, wherever everyone is, i.e. Rob and Carole´s house, Hal and Patt´s house or wherever, make sure there is someone with a Skype account. You can easily make one if you don´t already have one. My Skype username is leahguay, so look me up on Skype and add me to your contact list. Also, email me your Skype username so I can add you to my contact list and call you as soon as I get on the internet on Thursday. My email is: leahmro@gmail.com. And keep your computers on and logged onto Skype that day.
Wish me luck this week!!!!!!!!
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Campo livin´
Speaking of, I find out this Wednesday where my site for the next 2 years is going to be. Exciting and nerve-racking, all at the same time. This also means that training is getting closer to being over--yay!!! Until I have more news, here are some pictures..........

The volunteer´s house at his site. This is the typical style of a volunteer´s house when they build them themselves. We were hangin´out on the porch watching the storm get closer.

The two little boys at the house where I stayed. They were very cute and sweet and liked to climb all over me. That´s there dad´s moto in the back, which is the main form of transportation in the campo
Saturday, November 7, 2009
I´ve never loved the rain so much in my life
This will be a short post because not much has happened since the last one, but since I made it to the internet cafe today, I couldn´t neglect the blog. Something a little crazy did happen last night that I may as well talk about. Right before it started raining, I was sitting in my room, reading Collapse by Jarod Diamond (which i am really getting into right now and highly recommend), when my host sister, Marianna, opens my door hysterical and crying and saying her mom (my host mom) is not feeling well. I rush outside to where they are and find my host mom slumped in a chair and Marianna screaming at her to wake up. I helped Marianna get her out of the chair and onto the ground, where my host mom then goes unconcious. Keep in mind, I have no idea what the hell is going on and definitely do not have the language skills to ask such questions in a time of crisis. The grandmother from across the yard comes over and is also trying to wake her up and putting cold things on her head. I totally thought she was either dying or dead. I kept feeling for a pulse, but couldn´t find one. I was getting so worked up about it at this point that I almost passed out, too. Marianna kept screaming and calling people on her cell phone, while the grandmother keeps saying her name over and over and massaging her limbs. My host mom is diabetic so I assumed she was in some sort of insulin shock. I also thought for sure that they were calling people with a vehicle to come and get her and take her to a hospital. But no. Some neighbors come by, my host dad finally gets home from who knows where, and truck comes, but no one really does anything different. They just keep putting cool things on her head and saying her name and massaging her limbs. I thought they were crazy and wanted to yell and scream and tell them to get her to a doctor, but I don´t know how to say the in Guarani yet. Or Spanish, for that matter. Eventually, after at least 30 minutes of her being unconcious, she starts to come to and they´re able to move her to a chair and one of the first things she asks is if I still need my tea (I had not been feeling well that day). I assured her that I was fine, relatively, and that no, of course I don´t need any tea right now! The whole situation was absolutely crazy and I had a very difficult time sleeping last night. When my language teachers came for our language class this morning, I asked them to talk to my family so they could explain to me what the hell happened. Apparently, she had just worked herself up into a frenzy and passed out, maybe a panic attack, unhealthy conditions, she had been at the funeral of her uncle the day before, her son was being confirmed the next day, etc., etc., etc. I still don´t really buy it, but I guess that´s what happened. Hopefully it does not happen again. It really opened my eyes to some of the health problems I may be witness to once I´m out in the campo, where a trip to the doctor is not an option. (Except for me, of course. Dont´worry. I can always call the PC medical people and they´ll come pick me up immediately). I hope I can help if the need arises, at least more than I did last night.
We´re all leaving for what they call Long Field Practice next week for the whole week. We´re going to another volunteer´s site to get more of a taste of what it´s like to be a volunteer and practice some of the things that we may be doing as volunteers. The host family I stay with will probably only speak Guarani, so it should be interesting, to say the least. The week will be full of awkward sitations. But that´s what the Peace Corps is all about.
Until next time----








